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Thursday, July 10, 2014

10/7/2014 Letter to mum

Well it was bloody freezing.
No dive today.
Maggie gave me a lecture on survey technique.
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Wrote mum and dad a long email describing what I do in Madagascar.

9/7/2014
Gửi mẹ,

Cám ơn bố mẹ đã viết thư cho con.

Con đến thủ đô Tana vào tối thứ 7. Con và chị Nadine quyết định ở lại sân bay đến sáng chờ chuyến bay đến Tulear 6.30 sáng. Ngồi uống bia trong nhà hàng coi bóng đá đến khi họ đóng cửa thì đi.

Sáng hôm sau, đến Tulear, gặp chị Lauren, học sinh thực tập đến từ Úc, đón đưa vào thành phố Tulear. Tulear là một thành phố nhỏ, vẫn còn giữ lại không khá nhiều kiến trúc từ thời thuộc địa Pháp ngày xưa. Khu chợ có lẽ là nơi 'tấp nập' nhất ở đây nhưng người dân chỉ trao bán nhiều nhất là thức ăn như gà va rau củ quả. Lâu lâu lại có gặp vài ông lão bán những món đồ điêu khắc khá kỹ xảo.

Tulear vẫn chưa phải là nơi con đến làm. Từ Tulear đến làng Ifaty phải đi một chặng xe Taxi brousse. Xe khách này thường là một chiếc xe 16 chỗ khá cũ hoặc là một chiếc xe thồ nhỏ, thường thì quá tải vì chỉ có vài chuyến một ngày và hánh lý thì đều được buộc lên trên nóc. Đường đi vẫn còn thô xơ, đường đất và cát, một tiếng sau mới đến nơi. Madagascar đúng là một hòn đảo với nhiều môi trường sinh thái khác nhau - từ rừng nhiết đới đến rừng cát khô cằn.

Cả con và chị Nadine đều may mắn được ở phòng riêng. Nhà cửa rất đơn giản đúng cách sống ở quê. Mọi người đều ở nhà lá. Không có ống nước nên tất cả nước dùng tắm gội đều từ giếng, mỗi người dùng đều phải tự kéo lên. Chỉ có đánh răng rửa mặt thì dùng nước suối thôi.

ReefDoctor ở cạnh ngôi làng được gọi là Ifaty. Ngôi làng cũng khá nhỏ, đều là ngư dân sống phụ thuộc vào biển. Bắt cá để ăn chứ không mấy để bán. Dân ở đây được gọi là người Vezo. Thông thường người Malagsy biết nói tiếng pháp nhưng người Vezo nói tiếng bản địa nhiều hơn.

Dân làng đều ở nhà lá ven biển, xây gần nhau. Thuyền gỗ đánh cá được khắc ra từ thân cây úp đầy trên bãi cát. Chỉ có một trường học xây dựng nhờ ReefDoctor cho khoảng 30 em học. Nhờ ReefDoctor các em được dạy tiếng Anh và vui chơi trong câu lạc bộ sáng lập ra ở Reefdoctor.

Hoàng hôn ở đây đẹp lắm. Mọi người ăn cơm tối cùng nhau, cười đùa trong bóng chiều tà. Thật là rất thư giãn. Có vài anh chị làm ở đây là người Malagasy từ Đại học ở Tulear.

Buổi tối dù không có điện nhưng màn đêm với vạn nghìn vì sao quả là tuyệt vời. Ban đêm đọc sách bên ngọn nến cũng khá thú vị. Nói thế thôi chứ tối đi ngủ sớm lắm. Lâu lâu mọi người rủ nhau ra tạp hóa Jose mua vài thứ hoặc ngồi uống bia nói chuyện.

Mấy ngày hôm nay mới đến nên phải học từ từ căn bản về môi trường san hô và cách làm khảo sát sinh vật biển. Hôm qua lặn lần đầu tiên chỉ kiểm tra lại các kỹ năng cần thiết. Con đang bắt đầu đọc sách về các con san hô và các loài cá biển.

Câu chuyện tuyệt vời nhất hôm nay có lẽ là về hai chú rùa được dân làng cứu về. Cô Emma Gibbons là giáo sư sinh vật biển, người quản lý tất cả hoạt động của ReefDoctor ở Ifaty, đánh dấu chúng để phòng chúng bị bắt đi ăn thịt. Con được may mắn lên tàu để thả chúng ra khỏi Bay of Ranobe. Chú rùa con bế trên tay không ngừng ngọ nguậy hai bàn tay, giẫy giụa mong muốn được về biển. Vừa đặt phía trên mặt nước, chú đã bơi phóng đi mất. Nhanh thoăn thoắt, chỉ trong vòng vài giây chú đã biến mất. Ít nhất rùa đã về biển. Con chỉ mong chúng lại không vướng phải lưới thêm một lần nữa...

Thế thôi nhé! :) kể nhiều rồi bố mẹ đọc không hết.

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

9/9/2014

3am it looks like a storm out there. The wind has not stop blowing over my hut since the start of the night. I am scared to go out. Way too windy!

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I woke up early, had breakfast as pancake today and sat outside on the porch for it.

Meg gave us a lecture on Benthos, Fish ID and Invertebrates. It was long but nescessary because we are doing a point out today. Soon after we had to go get our kit ready for the dive at 10.30am. Carried our stuff out to the boat Fay as usual and push the boat out to sea.

The dive was at Rose Garden. I am starting to understand the stuff from the lecture. Pointed out several fishes that I have no clue about and not even in the survey. My suit was only 2.5m in such a windy cold weather...

Ended up helping the boatman scooping out water.

The usual stuff, clean our kit. I rushed to shower and then to a late lunch. Red beans and carrots but most were gone. Banana and peanut brittle. Yum yum!

The afternoon we had a meeting and then followed by a lecture from Beth on the Coral restoration project. All cool!

I was writing notes about corals then James came in and we had a talk about his uni career. He went to a uni near Bristol, did biological science. Spent his dissertation doing GIS to locate species. Self taught the whole program which is awesome then worked for a conservation for england place. Wanting to do conservation in the future or diving in remote places...

We had a volleyball practice. Fun! No rules. Just keep the ball moving.

Dinner after.

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

First dive in the water of Ranobe bay

It was not as cold as I was the first night. I woke up at 5am though, with nothing to do so I continued to write down daily log for myself.

Finally, Yani got up and I got up too. It was 6.30 am. Clean up and prepare for our first dive today.

Fatty the dog seems to like me and the puppy too. Fatty wanted my breakfast of plain bread roll so I gave him mine.

Scot the dive officer gave Nadine and I an introduction to ReefDoctor dive. Katie then did our briefing and I was handed over a BCD and an air tank. It was a scuba review for us both and we were scheduled to go at 9.30

Shortly after, we had to put our wetsuit on weight belt and the BCD. They were all very heavy. I was glad I was not that weak after stopping swimming for quite a bit already.

Anyhow, there was me, Nadine, Katie, Kate and Scot on the boat heading off to Rose Garden MPA.

I actually did the first roll backward from the boat today. We did several skills on the surface before descending. I was carrying about 5kg and clearly it was too heavy for me and I kept sinking so miserably. I had to take 2kg off. Everyone else seems to be wearing 6 or 7kg. Quite a lot I would say. Kate who was doing her PADI Advanced wore so many lead I dont even know how she managed to carry them.

I had a bit of a problem with bouyancy. I don't feel I was getting it right but may be I will in the future. No problem. We didnt get to do a tour around Rose Garden.

Headed back, all our gears have to be carried up to the Dive shop and rinse in fresh water. Everyone stripped off their wetsuit and rinsed the kit throughout. I had a shower and then rushed off to catch some lunch before they took it away.

Monday, July 7, 2014

Monday 7/7/2014

I think the biggest mistake I possibly made this trip is possibly being stupid and under-prepared for the cold of the night. I have 3 pairs of pants and 3 shirts. I left my fleece at Ms Stewart thinking I have over-packed.

Now I am cold and expect to wait till morning for any warm sunlight to heat my body up.

I slept well and had a breakfast of 3 bread rolls. There was jam but I don't eat jam ever so never-mind. Then I wasn't sure about the coffee so I skipped that.

Jasper Took Nadine and I through some ReefDoctor introduction ppt and tour of Ifaty. It is quite a big village I think. Lives are relatively traditional. People wear a mix of modern clothing and traditional cloth wrap dresses for women. Women also wear this yellow red paste on their faces which our guide explained to be a sort of suncream/moisturiser. They are very nice and friendly people who always smile and greeted Salama! The village has a school, built with help from Reefdoctor. The children get primary education here. Last night though, the playground became a cinema wih loud music. We walked by Jose and a few shops.

Around lunch time,  just like in Saigon,Vietnam, it became too hot to do anything. People had lunch and then sat around the volunteer  area to nap and sunbath. I tried to start noting down all the different type of corals. I want to try and learn all this stuff.

At 3pm, Rina took us through our first class of Malagasy. Very interesting and I am picking it up quite quickly. Rina is awesome! She is crazy, fun and so friendly.



Afterwards, Katie quickly tested me on the scuba review and we have dinner.  It was a nice ratatouille vegetable despite how the other people dislike it. The only thing is, it was a small amount of vegetables but lots of noodles. Well, the meals for me so far have been rather tasty. I am used to eating rice anyway.

I met 2 local guys Jivan and Liva, they both came from University of Tulear and has been working for 3 months at ReefDoctor. We tried our best to communicate in English and I really like them.

Everybody, the interns and volunteers then all walked to Jose to have some beers and local food. Weirdly enough, the street food taste like Viet street food. I am still adjusting to the convo people are having because I am not so sure yet. Not my culture and all. I am catching up I guess.

Sunday, July 6, 2014

Getting to Ifaty village - 6/7/2014

Nadine and I arrived at Tulear airport earlier than expected. The flight was moved to 6.30am not 8.20. We cancelled out taxi picked up and hotel in Tana.

Funny enough, we met another woman name Caroline who lives on a boat in Tulear. She just went away for 3 months to have a baby  in England. Now she returns homr with an adorable baby boy and her mother. The father will be seeing his son for the first time today.

We tried  but couldnt contact the ReefDoctor of our whereabout. In the end we decided to wait until they come to pick us up.

The taxi guy was very persistent on getting us on his ride.

Finally, Lauren arrived to pick us up. I also met Cale and they took us on a tour of Tulear and what we could possibly get.

She then took us out for a nice lunch. Food is all they talk about here because of the apparently lack of food for their taste buds. Meals are simple rice, beans and vegetables. For me sound perfect!

We got on a puss-puss which is a cyclo in Vietnam. Locals use them a lot here as a transport method. The guy and I, Nadine with Laren. The two malagasy rode us to the taxi brousse stop. We got on the big taxi brousse which end up becoming way too over crowded. It is the usual way here because only one or two trip goes out sobthey try to get as many people as possible. We got drop off a 15 minutes walk from Ifaty and the Reef Doctor base so the next step was to carry our big backpack and walk to camp.

Both Nadine and I got assigned a room each. It is properly simple. We live in a dried leaves hut with a bed covered in mosquitoes net and the blanket which needed to be clean.

I unpacked my bags, had a shower for the first time for 2 days and a change of clothes after 4 days. Feeling refreshed!

There is no running water. We shower by carrying a bucket of water we pulled up from the well and the toilet equal to a hole in the ground with a lingering fragrance that is hard to forget.

I am meeting new people, a tad bid nervous myself.

The sunset is starting to imprint in my mind. It is absolutely beautiful here. The sunset on the horizon just across the horizon seem to eat up the sea so gracefully. The colour blend is an amazing scene, hard to forget.

Night at Tana airport

After a long flight, we finally arrived at Tana airport. This would now be the beginning of a massive crowd queuing to get through immigration.

I was not wrong! I queued twice trying to get through and at the same time, trying to look out for Nadine. She waved to get my attention. What a relief it was to see her. I was so confused, they kept announcing my name but it was all spoken in French so I had absolutely no idea what they were saying. Even when I asked around for help. No one was able or willing to translate for me...

Immigration of Madagascar, well, lets just say they are not particularly organised. All 8 officers in one cubical, impressively dealing with a massive incoming crowed. Visa are issued in piles. We had to go paid and get a stamp from another stall before lining and handing in our passports all together with 10 other people.

I waited and waited. Hoping to see my passport again soon enough. Finally they handed back our passport with a visa each inside. We are now in Madagascar!




With relief, we wore our rucksack and walked out where a taxi driver was waiting for us. I still felt a little disoriented to be honest.

Lucky Nadine and I check on our domestic flight to Tulear. It was now earlier than the tickets we bought. We decided to stay instead of going to the hotel for only a few hours.
We are now watching Holand match over a bottle of Malagasy beer - the Three Horsesmen.

Its gonna be a long night and definitely getting colder...

Saturday, July 5, 2014

On the road to Madagascar

Wow it is official. After having to queue twice at heathrow, I am not on the plane to Paris, the first leg of my trip to Tana, Madagascar.

I spent two days in London after going home (VN) for a short time. With a suitcase, I waited at RGS to see my sister and catch up before I go. I am liking this RGS membership. Great facilities, awesome lectures and a space to chill! Ms Stewart has kindly taken me in for a night before her camping trip. I had the most wonderful time in such a lovely home, felt well taken care of. We both ended up packing and unpacking our bags.

I woke up very early, despite having little sleep for the last few days. After breakfast,  Ms Stewart showed me her little garden and her tomato plants. What an ecofriendly home - homegrown apple, veg...

We parted when her friends arrived to pick her up. It was actually the first time I wore my backpack and damn it was heavy.

This was the beginning of my adventure in London with a rucksack that is meant for Madagascar. I walked from Kings Cross to Chancerly Lane to meet someone whom I could not wait to see.
Ally is well and happy. In fact, she is doing impressively well. She got an internship for Capgemini and now an offical employee, working hard. She is even going to Uni part time. I am so incredibly happy she has found her passion doing the work she loves! Knowing who Ally is, I know she will devote herself to become successful and she really deserves the very very best.

It was the right time to catch up, a year later. We both found our passion. We both had time to grow up. Hearing Ally talks about her work, the incredible progress she has made in just on year, I am astonished and aw inspired. What a woman to watch out for!

We said our goodbye soon after, sadly with a promise to see each other again.



































With my backpack, I continued walking to South Kensington, wait until I could get the tube to Heathrow.















A few days back, I was told that I would be travelling on the same flight as another volunteer to Madagascar. Over a few exchanges of emails, Nadine has kindly offered to let me stay with her in her hotel room.

Nadine was already waiting outside for me at the hotel. It is great to meet someone who shares that love for adventure and willing to take me in before the flight. Over dinner, she told me about her 18 months travel, living in Peru, New Zealand and more. It is actually very impressive to me. I want to do that too!

Anyway, I am now on the plane. Cant wait for the amazing experience to come!

Where life has taken me