Monday, October 13, 2014
Tuesday, October 7, 2014
Madagaskara
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During the 6th weeks, time flew by, I felt immersed in the Malagasy culture (thanks to Rina for teaching me Malagasy!) and was so sad I had to part with all the friends I’ve made along the way at ReefDoctor. We’ve had so much fun, countless laughter and crazy moments.
Madagascar - A report for the Old Millhillian travel grant
-----------------------------------------
In
between the packing and repacking, I was anxious and nervous not knowing what
to expect for the seven weeks I was going to spend in Madagascar volunteering
for ReefDoctor. Months earlier, I had a long talk over coffee with Roderick the
director of the ReefDoctor NGO and felt compelled to spend my time with this
NGOs instead of going through other volunteering companies.
I was
not wrong. I had the most incredible seven weeks adventure in this little
village of Ifaty on the Bay of Ranobe, South Madagascar.
The
journey to the ReefDoctor site was not easy, mostly due to the lack of French I
possessed and the general transportation of Madagascar. However, I was welcomed
in almost instantly by other volunteers and staff, and soon enough, it seemed
like I had been here for ages. It didn’t take me long to realize perhaps I
packed a little bit too light for the winter season.
Within
the next few weeks, I was required to complete my Science Training which means learning
to identify different types of corals, invertebrates and fishes to be recorded
in the monthly survey. Since there were only two of us who were new, we had to
pick up the pace quite quickly. The training period involved doing underwater
IDs, mimic transect line, coral table cleaning and passing an exam at the end.
Every
morning, we would get up early and dive. It was a mental challenge everyday to
jump down into the cold winter water at 6 in the morning but it’s always worth
it! The Bay of Ranobe is a semi-enclosed lagoon in the southwestern coast of
Madagascar. Within there are several habitats from barrier reefs, patch reefs, sea
grass beds and mangroves. Our dives are conducted within the lagoon on a few
specific Marine Protected sites close to ReefDoctor.
Life
is very simple in the village of Ifaty. The village is small but comprised of
roughly 300 inhabitants called the Vezo which means they are a fishing village.
The locals speak mainly Vezo dialect with a little bit of French. They live in
thatched leaves hut close together extended inward from the Bay with only one
primary school built with help from ReefDoctor after a storm destroyed it.
Everyday, the men would take their fishing boat – an incredible design itself –
and paddle out to the sea whilst the women and children wait for low tide and
collect anything that is strained behind on the shore.
At
ReefDoctor, we live in huts made just like the villagers. There is no
electricity line or running water, everything was done by hand. We get to
charge our phones for three hours a day, no Internet, shower by taking a bucket
and no light. Every evening we had dinner in the most stunning sunset by the
sea waiting as the night full of stars take hold.
Alongside
with our daily work, volunteers were also encouraged to get involved as much as
possible with other projects. This meant helping the aquaculture project, which
involves a strenuous trek through an extensive seagrass bed amidst the fear of
stepping on sea urchins, to build sea cucumber and seaweed farm. Several days
of the month were dedicated to fisheries where we would wait to ID the
fishermen’s catches to build up data in the monthly survey.
With
help I honestly have learnt so much about the marine environment and the coral
reef system within just a few weeks. It
slowly became clear to me the main issues affecting the marine habitats within
the Bay of Ranobe had a lot of do with the increase in local population and to
a certain extent, the sustained increase seawater temperatures across the
globe. The increasing population of Madagascar has led to an increase in the
native Vezo people and other migrants living on the coastal of the Bay of
Ranobe. With this pressure, not only are there pressure on land but also on the
marine environment to cope with nutrient loading from agricultural fertilisers
and intensive fishing techniques. All the coastal habitats interact with each
other. On World’s mangrove day, we were invited to visit the Honku NGO who were
working in the same region and witness the affect of deforestation of forests
and mangroves on the Bay of Ranobe – high sedimentation. This resulted in
sediments covering the coral reefs and disrupt the life cycle of this habitat.
Of
course, it was not just all work, no play. The most memorable moment for me was
the release of two incredibly beautiful turtles back to the sea. On top of
that, seeing a extraordinary pair of humpback whales on one
of our dives was just unbelievable. Everyday, I got to sit by the sea and watch
the stunning sunset go as the starry night took hold. Then there was the
mind-blowing scenery of the trek through Isalo NP that showcased the impeccable
beauty that Madagascar has to offer! It was incredible to witness the
various landscapes from dry tropical desert to the extraordinary canyons among
savanna grassland within Isalo. Also, the diversity of species in Madagascar.
During the 6th weeks, time flew by, I felt immersed in the Malagasy culture (thanks to Rina for teaching me Malagasy!) and was so sad I had to part with all the friends I’ve made along the way at ReefDoctor. We’ve had so much fun, countless laughter and crazy moments.
All I
can say is that I have had such an unbelievable time at ReefDoctor that simply
cannot be described. There were so much laughter, friendship and wonderful
time. I have seen so many awesome animals like the amazing humpback whales
during one of our dives, the biggest Peacock Grouper I have ever seen, releasing
two beautiful turtles back to the ocean and taking a selfie with a gorgeous
green Chameleon. Oh and lots of lemurs too!
So I
will write all the lessons I’ve learnt from this trip:
1. Things
never go to plan but relax, that’s part of the fun!
Getting around Madagascar rarely ever goes according to plan. If
anything, I have learnt to stay calm and have a laugh because virtually every single
journey I have taken has been interesting.
The first time, I landed at Tana airport into the chaos of the Malagasy
styled immigration and visa office. I was aware I would have a language problem
but I didn’t comprehend how overwhelming it would be. It didn’t help that they
were announcing my name on the speaker in French either. After a while
struggling to explain myself, I found my way to pay the visa fees and the
officers took my passport away along with 10 others, all at once.
Finally we got out to find that our domestic flight to Tulear has been
moved earlier with no warning given. So I decided to tough it out and stay at
the airport, freezing until the next morning. We watched the final world cup match
until they kicked us out.
The airport was definitely not designed for people to wait in. There
weren’t many seats to find. We ended up sitting in a narrow aisle, on a set of
coloured worn out plastic chairs where we met a brave young mother who just had her baby boy
and they were going to see the father for the first time.
The village of Ifaty has to be reached by an hour and a half ride on a
taxi-brousse. There is no better way to have a true Malagasy experience than having
a ride on the local transport - taxi brousse. They range from small trucks to
bigger truck/car travelling on mostly unmade road. It can be overwhelming at first
when it seems like the whole village is coming with you. Every inch of the
vehicle is fully utilized because anything and everything goes in and on a taxi
brousse.
As I sat on the seat, rice bags and
wood panels would go under and piled up to our seats so that sometimes I would
have to crawl into a ball. Then the furniture, bags would be strapped to the
top as well as animals being taken to the market like chickens. The fishes went
under the truck. You will grow to love the blasting upbeat Gasy music, especially
the infamous DJ “Mr Nice”. It is not unusual to be hanging off the back of the
truck for an hour either when there is absolutely no room left but trust me you
will appreciate it considering how stuffy it would be inside when the driver is
unwilling to go, circulate around the town until he can fill the entire truck
to the maximum.
Nothing that goes on a taxi brousse surprises
me anymore. In fact, they always gave me a good laugh. On my journey back to
the capital Antanarivo, a goat was strapped down on the truck above my head for
20 hours overnight, then there were baby cribs, turkeys etc. However, I am glad
I took this route along the RN7 highway – Madagascar’s best road, because I got
to see the beautiful landscape changes from the dry desert sand of the south to
the rice paddy of the central highland. It was definitely worth seeing!
2. Learnt the local language
This was definitely my gateway into the Malagasy culture. Within the
first two days arriving at the campsite, I met the most awesome Malagasy girl
with a wicked sense of humor.
With the kind help from Rina, I was able to "speak" Malagasy
and be understood with a laugh from my friend at the village. As part of our work,
we held English lessons for children and adults from the village. My basic
Malagasy proved to be very useful to translate some words in English into
Malagasy. In returns, the kids taught me how to count in Malagasy!
3. The
People
I have to say the most important component of my whole experience was
all the people I met over the 7 weeks. I have made so many friends and was inspired
by so many for their love for the ocean and the environment from all walks of
life. They have been so patient to answers all my questions and so much
kindness it has definitely made my entire adventure unforgettable.
The Malagasy people are diverse, with 18 different ethnic
groups, the differences don’t just range from different origins and dialects
but also customs and “fady”. “Fady” is the Malagasy word for taboo.
The 7 weeks in Madagascar all
seems like a dream to me. I spent the last week making my way back to England bringing
with me so many memories that I hope will never forget.
Thank you for giving me the most
incredible experience in Madagascar that I could ever ask for. Without the generosity
from the OldMillhillian and the support of my friends and family, I wouldn't be
able to have had such an opportunity.
Thank you!
Saturday, August 23, 2014
Week 7 - A long journey home
Sunday
Taxi brousse at 5am
Delphine and I, Nadine and Ella. Cale
Arrived in Tulear, straight to Manatan.
Met Jaani, went to breakfast, had sorbet then shopping
Manatan until 12, lunch at Le Jardin
Goodbye to Nadine, Ella and Delphine
Goodbye to Cale
Walk with Jaani back to hotel
Took over Jaani's room with Ed.
Sat with the boya until they leave at 4pm.
James gave me photos
Gave Jaani a hug, no longer roomate, no burning hut down fear
George and his tintin chair
They got on 4x4, gave Jamie, James and ciaren
Julian a hug, Ed, arjen
They left.
Stayed in my room until jivan texted.
Met him, went for a walk, talk, laugh. He kept finding way to touch my arm, wrap his hand around me. Talk about reefdoctor, he wanted to wait for me to come back. I said Idont know when Iwill. I make no promise.
Back at hotel, talked for a while and then we parted. I gave him a hug, he whispered in my ear 'i love you'. I said thank you
Monday
Walk all around town, bought new pant, a camellion
Met the Honku's girls who just came.back from weekend in Anakao.
Le jardin/gelateria closed.
Went to la colombe instead, ate sambosa and had grilled vegetables with shrimps
Back to hotel
Packed, pay for room, try to sort out
1.30 Jivan came to pick me up.
Puss puss to station
Tuesday
Cold, freezing as we get into the highland area
11 am arrived at Tana
Taxi to moonlight hotel
Walking and exploring Tana
Got room
Went out again
Wednesday
Walk around, all the way to isokara
Bought stuff
Went back, sleep, check out
Wait on the terrace
Taxi to airport at 10.00 pm
Check in
Flying with Kenya airway.
First stop Nairobi. Then Nairobi to Amsterdam. Amsterdam - London
Thursday
Arrived late 5pm, got out 6.30pm.
Went on Northern Line
Taxi brousse at 5am
Delphine and I, Nadine and Ella. Cale
Arrived in Tulear, straight to Manatan.
Met Jaani, went to breakfast, had sorbet then shopping
Manatan until 12, lunch at Le Jardin
Goodbye to Nadine, Ella and Delphine
Goodbye to Cale
Walk with Jaani back to hotel
Took over Jaani's room with Ed.
Sat with the boya until they leave at 4pm.
James gave me photos
Gave Jaani a hug, no longer roomate, no burning hut down fear
George and his tintin chair
They got on 4x4, gave Jamie, James and ciaren
Julian a hug, Ed, arjen
They left.
Stayed in my room until jivan texted.
Met him, went for a walk, talk, laugh. He kept finding way to touch my arm, wrap his hand around me. Talk about reefdoctor, he wanted to wait for me to come back. I said Idont know when Iwill. I make no promise.
Back at hotel, talked for a while and then we parted. I gave him a hug, he whispered in my ear 'i love you'. I said thank you
Monday
Walk all around town, bought new pant, a camellion
Met the Honku's girls who just came.back from weekend in Anakao.
Le jardin/gelateria closed.
Went to la colombe instead, ate sambosa and had grilled vegetables with shrimps
Back to hotel
Packed, pay for room, try to sort out
1.30 Jivan came to pick me up.
Puss puss to station
Tuesday
Cold, freezing as we get into the highland area
11 am arrived at Tana
Taxi to moonlight hotel
Walking and exploring Tana
Got room
Went out again
Wednesday
Walk around, all the way to isokara
Bought stuff
Went back, sleep, check out
Wait on the terrace
Taxi to airport at 10.00 pm
Check in
Flying with Kenya airway.
First stop Nairobi. Then Nairobi to Amsterdam. Amsterdam - London
Thursday
Arrived late 5pm, got out 6.30pm.
Went on Northern Line
Sunday, August 17, 2014
Week 6 - Last week at Reef Doctor
Monday
Fisheries with peppin
walk to berevy with ella and ed
Learnt fishes flashcarda, im.quite good now
Waited a long time due to voat coming back near 1 or 2
We had nothing until 2pm I started recording tons of fishes
Didnt have lunch
Ella and ed left to go back for 3pm dive
Peppan, 2 guys, we walked along to beach back and then we got on a piroge, sailing back to ifaty
Late lunch back at reefdoctor
New guy, Jamie arrived
Kate's last night, jose
She is loved by everyone bc they all came.
Played werewolves
Jivan really likes me. He came over and sat next to me. He had like 4 beers or sth. Held my hands and say he will.miss me when im gone. Will i come back? I dont know how I feel. I do, really like him but im leaving and Idont know when Iwill be back. He had to work at night for sea cucumbers. I told him to go.
Manjo came
Tuesday
6.30 dives ppl left, I talk to beth about tanks problem, she has ear infection
I said will help her with anything she needs
Found lauren to fill our tanks
8.30 dive became 9 due to lack of tanks
Good dive, id fishes myself now bc everyone has a point out, i didnt need one.
Came back, low tide, boat left outside
Sea cucumbers being weighted.
Jivan and leva are exhausted.
I helped them to build the sea cucumber fences.
Jivan took off his shirt and started digging. He was singing some french song to me.
Came back at 2. Dog ate our food. They cooked noodles for us, tiny portions...
Swam with Nadine
Shower, walked to jose with her, bought chocolate and 10 samosa
Pineapple time
Rina, looi, nadine and I all together
Tried to talk to jivan but i think he is way too exhausted or not happy with me last nite... idk. I feel bad. They have to finish the fences tonight. Wth! Its night time
They cant do that... :(
Wednesday
Mimics with George and James
Tank leaking, george switched with me
Helped Liva with sea cucumber fence
Jaani special dinner for bday
Zebu feast for everyone
I got lots of poached egg, cheese on top. Plain and rather bad... chips was good. Cake too big
Rhum after
Talk with george, nadinr, ella, rob, looi
Thursday
Dive at 6.3
Coral garden
Point out with Ciaren and george
Me doing expert fishes
George got lost. We surfaced and come back to boat
Someone lost a weight, manjo freedive down 14m, picked up and swam quite a distance back to boat... amazing
Came running in from dive to look for result
Not working
Magz later lend me her computer to check the internet
Ed got into Oxford
I got into UEA, no clue about results, coulnt access it
Showed manjo my drawing of him :)
10.30 walk to mangily with cale, looi, nadine, delphine, ciaren
Lunch except me and Nadine
Got my results. Not so happy with econ and art
Both went to do data together, walking in mud, treading through seagrass, stepping on urchin
Bought 3 pineapple at Mangily
Walked back, rina
Friday
Dive at Ambifina
30m vis, pippa and arjen, point out/photohunt
Stone fish
Looi dropped out of Cale's aquaculture group to the southern villages: berevy and ambolabouy. I volunteered.
Walk to berevy, met pepin and fisheries guys who will take us for lunch. Must wait for him to count fishea. I joined to ID fishes myself.
Nice lunch with fish.
Walk to beach, start our survey, Nadine and I, ed and jaani, rob and cale
Nadine and I, knee deep higher in mud and seagrass for first half hour. Play with sea cucumber, talk random shit. 2 seacucumbers stuck on one of her foot as she lifted her leg up. Hilarious!
Heading back!
Bought 10 samosas with ella before dinner. Ate all!
Trivia night!
Team bean turd with Julien, Cale, beth.
Saturday
Kit up at 7am
Dive trip to Coral Garden
Nadine took pic of me, found stone fish, triton shell eating a star fish
Boys left the camp
Pineapple time with Looi, ella, nadine, cale
Nice lunch made by Victor the awesome cook
Packed my bag in the scorching heat, washed my clothes, stuff them in my bag
Walked with Ella to Eva's lodge to order dinner. We are the first customers at this new place.
Took dinner order for Nadine, Looi, Ella, Rob, Delphine and I.
With Ella to Jose, picked up Trouble' puppy and drop it off with some kid on the way to Jose.
Bought food, telma credit
Goodbye to Maggie and Beth :(
Walk to Eva's lodge, the owner asked for Gasy dancing/music ambelagasy - banjo, gasy guitars, girls singand dance
Awesome salad, ate so much, big gtilled fish, fruit salad
Said goodbye to Lauren on the way back. Im food drunk. Gave her a big hug, plan for future travel in Vietnam and Asia next year. Told her that I have lots of admiration for her and that she has to be amazing :)
Fisheries with peppin
walk to berevy with ella and ed
Learnt fishes flashcarda, im.quite good now
Waited a long time due to voat coming back near 1 or 2
We had nothing until 2pm I started recording tons of fishes
Didnt have lunch
Ella and ed left to go back for 3pm dive
Peppan, 2 guys, we walked along to beach back and then we got on a piroge, sailing back to ifaty
Late lunch back at reefdoctor
New guy, Jamie arrived
Kate's last night, jose
She is loved by everyone bc they all came.
Played werewolves
Jivan really likes me. He came over and sat next to me. He had like 4 beers or sth. Held my hands and say he will.miss me when im gone. Will i come back? I dont know how I feel. I do, really like him but im leaving and Idont know when Iwill be back. He had to work at night for sea cucumbers. I told him to go.
Manjo came
Tuesday
6.30 dives ppl left, I talk to beth about tanks problem, she has ear infection
I said will help her with anything she needs
Found lauren to fill our tanks
8.30 dive became 9 due to lack of tanks
Good dive, id fishes myself now bc everyone has a point out, i didnt need one.
Came back, low tide, boat left outside
Sea cucumbers being weighted.
Jivan and leva are exhausted.
I helped them to build the sea cucumber fences.
Jivan took off his shirt and started digging. He was singing some french song to me.
Came back at 2. Dog ate our food. They cooked noodles for us, tiny portions...
Swam with Nadine
Shower, walked to jose with her, bought chocolate and 10 samosa
Pineapple time
Rina, looi, nadine and I all together
Tried to talk to jivan but i think he is way too exhausted or not happy with me last nite... idk. I feel bad. They have to finish the fences tonight. Wth! Its night time
They cant do that... :(
Wednesday
Mimics with George and James
Tank leaking, george switched with me
Helped Liva with sea cucumber fence
Jaani special dinner for bday
Zebu feast for everyone
I got lots of poached egg, cheese on top. Plain and rather bad... chips was good. Cake too big
Rhum after
Talk with george, nadinr, ella, rob, looi
Thursday
Dive at 6.3
Coral garden
Point out with Ciaren and george
Me doing expert fishes
George got lost. We surfaced and come back to boat
Someone lost a weight, manjo freedive down 14m, picked up and swam quite a distance back to boat... amazing
Came running in from dive to look for result
Not working
Magz later lend me her computer to check the internet
Ed got into Oxford
I got into UEA, no clue about results, coulnt access it
Showed manjo my drawing of him :)
10.30 walk to mangily with cale, looi, nadine, delphine, ciaren
Lunch except me and Nadine
Got my results. Not so happy with econ and art
Both went to do data together, walking in mud, treading through seagrass, stepping on urchin
Bought 3 pineapple at Mangily
Walked back, rina
Friday
Dive at Ambifina
30m vis, pippa and arjen, point out/photohunt
Stone fish
Looi dropped out of Cale's aquaculture group to the southern villages: berevy and ambolabouy. I volunteered.
Walk to berevy, met pepin and fisheries guys who will take us for lunch. Must wait for him to count fishea. I joined to ID fishes myself.
Nice lunch with fish.
Walk to beach, start our survey, Nadine and I, ed and jaani, rob and cale
Nadine and I, knee deep higher in mud and seagrass for first half hour. Play with sea cucumber, talk random shit. 2 seacucumbers stuck on one of her foot as she lifted her leg up. Hilarious!
Heading back!
Bought 10 samosas with ella before dinner. Ate all!
Trivia night!
Team bean turd with Julien, Cale, beth.
Saturday
Kit up at 7am
Dive trip to Coral Garden
Nadine took pic of me, found stone fish, triton shell eating a star fish
Boys left the camp
Pineapple time with Looi, ella, nadine, cale
Nice lunch made by Victor the awesome cook
Packed my bag in the scorching heat, washed my clothes, stuff them in my bag
Walked with Ella to Eva's lodge to order dinner. We are the first customers at this new place.
Took dinner order for Nadine, Looi, Ella, Rob, Delphine and I.
With Ella to Jose, picked up Trouble' puppy and drop it off with some kid on the way to Jose.
Bought food, telma credit
Goodbye to Maggie and Beth :(
Walk to Eva's lodge, the owner asked for Gasy dancing/music ambelagasy - banjo, gasy guitars, girls singand dance
Awesome salad, ate so much, big gtilled fish, fruit salad
Said goodbye to Lauren on the way back. Im food drunk. Gave her a big hug, plan for future travel in Vietnam and Asia next year. Told her that I have lots of admiration for her and that she has to be amazing :)
Sunday, August 10, 2014
Week 5 - Mangily
Wednesday
Diving with george and James, look for nudibranch
Thursday
Mimics with beth, didnt pass
Saw a mating nudibrach in one of our transect
Volleyball match against local, played soccer with kids, taught them english counting and they taught me to count in gasy
Friday
Redo mimics with magz and kate
Signed off, complete science trainigng
French lesson
Teach english, tried at beginning with Ed. Kate, rina came.
Saturday
Fundive with Looi, nadine, kate, george, pippa, james at new site
Looi's first leading as divemaster
Nice site with 4 corals block, saw nudibrach
Came back late, walk back due to low tide
Nadine not coming to mangily
Everyone left. Me and rob walked up at 4pm, met them at mangily hotel
Went to near sebastian hotel for a shower, bought pineapple
Ppl had snok snok drink at hotel bar, head off to dinner
Grilled fish 10,000ar, id our fishes, emperor fish. I cut pineapple and ate the whole thing myself
To blue bar, pre drinks and dancing, more rum
Sebastian, met rina and alice, lots of dancing
Rina awesome dancer
Jaani and james fucked
James spilled drink on me
Kept jaani.money for him,
Delphine, ella, me left early
Sunday
6am woke up. Wtf jaani on kates bed!!!
Ella, jaani and Iwent to breakfast at anne, not me
Went to james room, discuss story of last night
Everyone hungover
Late breakfast at rina's
Met rina at 11am, kate an I waited at blue bar
Rina walked us through mainstreet to her place inside
Big land she has, a guardian lives there to look after her house
Cute hut, her hut is simple, 2 windows, a mattress
Ate breakfast outside, rice soup with veg, zebu meat balls
Talk about how rina felt about reefdoctor, how they treat her
Emma, christina and alice kept saying she is fat, emma kept asking if she is pregnant, made fun of her and alex(potential bf, english guy)
Stayed until 2pm
Kate and I walked to Tmarind tree, ate with others
Everyone left to mangily hotel
Kate and Iwalked to buy pineappke
I bought 2
Then we bought a gasy carved box
To mangily hotel
I walked back by myself early
Nice walk alone, barefoot, in the water
Nadine, looi, magz, beth, cale all went to nautilus for dinner
Diving with george and James, look for nudibranch
Thursday
Mimics with beth, didnt pass
Saw a mating nudibrach in one of our transect
Volleyball match against local, played soccer with kids, taught them english counting and they taught me to count in gasy
Friday
Redo mimics with magz and kate
Signed off, complete science trainigng
French lesson
Teach english, tried at beginning with Ed. Kate, rina came.
Saturday
Fundive with Looi, nadine, kate, george, pippa, james at new site
Looi's first leading as divemaster
Nice site with 4 corals block, saw nudibrach
Came back late, walk back due to low tide
Nadine not coming to mangily
Everyone left. Me and rob walked up at 4pm, met them at mangily hotel
Went to near sebastian hotel for a shower, bought pineapple
Ppl had snok snok drink at hotel bar, head off to dinner
Grilled fish 10,000ar, id our fishes, emperor fish. I cut pineapple and ate the whole thing myself
To blue bar, pre drinks and dancing, more rum
Sebastian, met rina and alice, lots of dancing
Rina awesome dancer
Jaani and james fucked
James spilled drink on me
Kept jaani.money for him,
Delphine, ella, me left early
Sunday
6am woke up. Wtf jaani on kates bed!!!
Ella, jaani and Iwent to breakfast at anne, not me
Went to james room, discuss story of last night
Everyone hungover
Late breakfast at rina's
Met rina at 11am, kate an I waited at blue bar
Rina walked us through mainstreet to her place inside
Big land she has, a guardian lives there to look after her house
Cute hut, her hut is simple, 2 windows, a mattress
Ate breakfast outside, rice soup with veg, zebu meat balls
Talk about how rina felt about reefdoctor, how they treat her
Emma, christina and alice kept saying she is fat, emma kept asking if she is pregnant, made fun of her and alex(potential bf, english guy)
Stayed until 2pm
Kate and I walked to Tmarind tree, ate with others
Everyone left to mangily hotel
Kate and Iwalked to buy pineappke
I bought 2
Then we bought a gasy carved box
To mangily hotel
I walked back by myself early
Nice walk alone, barefoot, in the water
Nadine, looi, magz, beth, cale all went to nautilus for dinner
Tuesday, August 5, 2014
Isalo NP - Daily log
Day 1:
taxibrousse to tulear late, 6.00 am yet arrived at 9.30
Hotel manatan
ATM, shopping
Taxi brousse Mafio at 2.00
2 rows on the back, sat next to George, had lots of street food,
Laughing with lauren
4.00pm driving to Momotrek
Several breaks, dinner, police checks
Met the owner, went over detail, map
Sharing a bungalow for 7 ppl
Bunk bed above, george below
Lauren above, kate below, jaani and antoine sharing bed, johny alone
Everyone had a hot shower
George made me laugh a lot
Day 2:
Woke up early, breakfast at 7.30
Small bagguettes, butter and pineapple jam. Papaya and coffee.
2 cars to start point
My car full of porters on the back, antoine and jaani
Car broke down in the middle, surrounded by beautiful canyons, savana grassland
Jacob drove back to pick us up.
Julien - 19 yrs of guiding, thin frail man, dont speak much english
Julio - son, work with dad for 3yrs, better english, tell us stuff
Start trekking from village, through grassland, climb up canyons
Blisters, moaning from Johnny
George telling me stuff about geology
White lemurs
More moaning from Johnny and he stepped on back of my leg and scratch my leg quite big
Portuguesse
Arrived at campsite, by a stream, share tents with kate and lauren
Dinner, noodle soup, rice and beans
Torch become tent light
Good talk about random stuff like family
Lauren, sydney, parents separated, was working as some sort of consultant job, quit to travel for 2yrs, want to either become a ranger or a guide for hiking, one older sister
Kate, bristol uni, parent separated, older brother, sleep talk,
Showed them my drawings and art project
Day 3
Breakfast at 7
Start walking at 7.30
Through forests, some climbing
7 dwarfs, im sneezy, lauren doc, george dopey, jaani grumpy, antoin happy, johnny sleepy, kate blush
Fruit: im a peach
Talk about food, future prospect jobs and travel with lauren.
Dinner: chicken and pasta, lauren shares her bombay snack
Tired, achy feet
We laughed i killed a chicken
Day 4
Beautiful scenery
Best Tent spot, up altitude, by mountain
Waterfall as bathing pool
Day 5
Wear sandals, no more pain, blister
Walk through dry river bed full of sand
Took pictures of ringtailed lemurs
Black pool, jaani, antoin
Jumped into freezing blue pool with lauren
Walk back to bungalow, through the scattered grassland, passing big troop of zebu
Good talk with Julian, learnt how to say animal in gasy
Bungalow, johnathan used up hot shower 50 min, not happy
Stroll, bought ice cream for lauren, me and kate.
Devour street food, fried vegetables, peanuts
Lauren want to buy baobab tree painting, 40,000ar i negotiate the 30,000 ar
Nice fish curry for dinner
Shared rum btw looi, kate, george
Paid hotel room
Weeds, george rolled it, i showered and came out, stilltook a long time, we all went outside to smoke, 2nd roll in toilet
Day 6
Woke up early
Breakfast gasy style, 100k for 1 buk buk, just bought like 7 and 2 banana to eat them. Good breakkie!
Fucked up with the taxi brousse, prob explaining to driver what we want. They played with us about our taxi brousse, many passed and we cant get on
4x4 to next town, squash in. Me and george at the front, kate johnathan 2american girls back, looi, jaani and antoin at the back outside with luggage
Taxi brousse to tulear, so many people, i sat next to george and looi, in middle, bum falling off seat a lot, numb
Got to tulear at 1.30pm, decided to stay ib tulear till 5pm to get 4x4 back to ifaty
Back to manatan, ppl use internet
ATM with Jaani and george, magic store buy granola, biscuit
Late lunch at le jardin, spainish salad
5pm walk quickly back to manatan to get on 4x4 to ifaty, beautiful scenery back
Dinner, meet ppl again at camp, apparently, ppl saw whales, had good dives, amazing vis for the last week or so
Nadine gave me a big hug straight away, a bit tipsy she was
taxibrousse to tulear late, 6.00 am yet arrived at 9.30
Hotel manatan
ATM, shopping
Taxi brousse Mafio at 2.00
2 rows on the back, sat next to George, had lots of street food,
Laughing with lauren
4.00pm driving to Momotrek
Several breaks, dinner, police checks
Met the owner, went over detail, map
Sharing a bungalow for 7 ppl
Bunk bed above, george below
Lauren above, kate below, jaani and antoine sharing bed, johny alone
Everyone had a hot shower
George made me laugh a lot
Day 2:
Woke up early, breakfast at 7.30
Small bagguettes, butter and pineapple jam. Papaya and coffee.
2 cars to start point
My car full of porters on the back, antoine and jaani
Car broke down in the middle, surrounded by beautiful canyons, savana grassland
Jacob drove back to pick us up.
Julien - 19 yrs of guiding, thin frail man, dont speak much english
Julio - son, work with dad for 3yrs, better english, tell us stuff
Start trekking from village, through grassland, climb up canyons
Blisters, moaning from Johnny
George telling me stuff about geology
White lemurs
More moaning from Johnny and he stepped on back of my leg and scratch my leg quite big
Portuguesse
Arrived at campsite, by a stream, share tents with kate and lauren
Dinner, noodle soup, rice and beans
Torch become tent light
Good talk about random stuff like family
Lauren, sydney, parents separated, was working as some sort of consultant job, quit to travel for 2yrs, want to either become a ranger or a guide for hiking, one older sister
Kate, bristol uni, parent separated, older brother, sleep talk,
Showed them my drawings and art project
Day 3
Breakfast at 7
Start walking at 7.30
Through forests, some climbing
7 dwarfs, im sneezy, lauren doc, george dopey, jaani grumpy, antoin happy, johnny sleepy, kate blush
Fruit: im a peach
Talk about food, future prospect jobs and travel with lauren.
Dinner: chicken and pasta, lauren shares her bombay snack
Tired, achy feet
We laughed i killed a chicken
Day 4
Beautiful scenery
Best Tent spot, up altitude, by mountain
Waterfall as bathing pool
Day 5
Wear sandals, no more pain, blister
Walk through dry river bed full of sand
Took pictures of ringtailed lemurs
Black pool, jaani, antoin
Jumped into freezing blue pool with lauren
Walk back to bungalow, through the scattered grassland, passing big troop of zebu
Good talk with Julian, learnt how to say animal in gasy
Bungalow, johnathan used up hot shower 50 min, not happy
Stroll, bought ice cream for lauren, me and kate.
Devour street food, fried vegetables, peanuts
Lauren want to buy baobab tree painting, 40,000ar i negotiate the 30,000 ar
Nice fish curry for dinner
Shared rum btw looi, kate, george
Paid hotel room
Weeds, george rolled it, i showered and came out, stilltook a long time, we all went outside to smoke, 2nd roll in toilet
Day 6
Woke up early
Breakfast gasy style, 100k for 1 buk buk, just bought like 7 and 2 banana to eat them. Good breakkie!
Fucked up with the taxi brousse, prob explaining to driver what we want. They played with us about our taxi brousse, many passed and we cant get on
4x4 to next town, squash in. Me and george at the front, kate johnathan 2american girls back, looi, jaani and antoin at the back outside with luggage
Taxi brousse to tulear, so many people, i sat next to george and looi, in middle, bum falling off seat a lot, numb
Got to tulear at 1.30pm, decided to stay ib tulear till 5pm to get 4x4 back to ifaty
Back to manatan, ppl use internet
ATM with Jaani and george, magic store buy granola, biscuit
Late lunch at le jardin, spainish salad
5pm walk quickly back to manatan to get on 4x4 to ifaty, beautiful scenery back
Dinner, meet ppl again at camp, apparently, ppl saw whales, had good dives, amazing vis for the last week or so
Nadine gave me a big hug straight away, a bit tipsy she was
Sunday, July 27, 2014
Rừng quốc gia Zombitse - Zombitse NP
Cuối tuần trước các anh chị tổ chức đi dã ngoại tại rừng quốc gia Zombitse. Vì đi đông người nên có thể thuê cả một xe 16 chỗ đi mà không phải chờ taxi brousse. Vì chỗ tụi con ở xa nên đi lại cũng hơi bất tiện. Taxi brousse như con đã kể là phương tiện đi lại chủ yếu của người dân Malagasy. Từ xe thồ đi đến các làng nhỏ như chỗ con ở, đến xe 16 chỗ đi tỉnh lớn hơn hoặc xe khách lớn hơn nữa đi đến các thành phố khác. Hành lý đều chất hết lên nóc.
Để có thêm nhiều thời gian đi rừng ngày chủ nhật, tụi con lên thành phố Tulear trước ngủ lại để sáng hôm sau lên đường sớm.Tầm trưa thứ 7 đã lên Tulear rồi. Mọi người cùng nhau đi mua đồ ăn sáng và trưa cho ngày hôm sau. Có thêm 3 bạn từ tổ chức Honku, làm ở rừng ngập mặn cách Reefdoctor không xa lắm cũng tham gia chuyến đi. Con cũng đã có thời gian gặp gỡ với các bạn ở tiệc BBQ lần trước. Chiều tối, nhân tiện chia tay một chị sinh viên thực tập về nước, các bạn rủ nhau ra nhà hàng ăn một bữa ăn ngon rồi về nghỉ ngơi.
Vì tiết kiệm tiền đi xe nên bảy đứa chui hết vào một phòng cho năm người. Nói chung khá là đông. Con xin thêm nệm ngủ dưới đất.
4h sáng đã phải lục đục dậy để chuẩn bị nửa tiếng sau khởi hành. Mọi người ai nấy vẫn còn đang ngái ngủ, trả tiền khách sạn xong xuôi thì lên đường.
Trời vẫn còn tối, cửa sổ mở để gió lạnh thổi vào. Xe bắt đầu chạy theo con đường quốc lộ RN7. Bên ngoài tối như mực, không một ánh đèn, chỉ có một bầu trời phủ đầy sao lấp lánh. Xe vẫn cứ tiếp tục băng băng trong màn đêm, qua mấy trạm kiểm soát. Vài nơi đâu đó dọc đường có ánh sáng mập mờ và mùi hương của củi đốt cháy trước những ngôi nhà lá.
Từ từ rồi mặt trời cũng ló mặt. Quang cảnh xung quanh bắt đầu hiện rõ lên hơn. Con đường quốc lộ RN7 khá nhỏ, cắt vào giữa vùng đất khô cằn của phía Nam Bắc Madagascar. Hai bên đường là một màu vàng, đất cát bao trùm, cây cối lưa thưa và nhiều nhất là loại cỏ cũng chung một màu vàng. Các loại thực vật ở đây đã học cách thích nghi với môi trường khắc nghiệt giữa thung lũng cát. Cây to thưa thớt, rải dọc hai bên. Có cây thì xanh, phủ mát một phấn đất, thường có ít ngôi nhà lá bao vây. Người dân Malagasy không chỉ dựa vào cây để trú mát mà họ còn tin vào linh hồn nằm trong cây. Vì thế khi đến Ifaty, Rina đã nói cho con biết rằng không nên đạp lên rễ cây của những cái cây to như là cây me, một điều "fady" trong phong tục ở đây. "Fady" là từ dùng để tả những điều xấu.
Xa xa khỏi vùng cát khô là những dãy núi đá vàng đang mòn theo thời gian với đỉnh phẳng như mặt bàn. Đặc trưng ở phía Nam là cây baobab, một loại cây có thân to và cao nhưng thường không có nhiều lá nên dân cư thường không chọn loại cây này để xây dựng làng.
Sau gần 2 tiếng đồng hồ, xe dừng lại giữa con đường quốc lộ RN7. Hai bên cây xanh rậm rạp, tụi con đang nằm giữa khu rừng quốc gia Zombitse. Tại đây, một anh thanh niên người Malagasy sẽ dẫn đường vào thăm quan rừng cho cả nhóm.
Rừng Zombitse được bảo vệ vì vào đây người ta sẽ thấy rừng xanh chuyển thành rừng khô. Cánh rừng vẫn còn khá là hoang sơ mặc dù đã có những lối đi đã được phá cho du khách tham quan. Tất cả đều im lặng để chờ xem lemurs.
Lemurs là con vật biểu tượng quốc gia của Madagscar. Cả nước có rất nhiều loại lemurs khác nhau. Vào rừng khoảng 20 phút, tụi con đã thấy chúng đu từ cành cây này đến cành cây kia. Lemurs giống như khỉ vậy. Sống ở trên cây, có đuôi dài, mắt to có vành đen và tùy vào loài mà có màu lông khác nhau. Loài mà con thấy lúc này có màu trắng buốt từ đầu đến chân.
Đi sâu thêm thì bắt gặp nhiều loại vật khác như con tắc kè đổi màu giả dạng trên cây, con thằn lằn xanh mướt và nhiều loài chim nữa. Càng đi sâu càng thấy thú vị theo anh thanh niên Malagasy tìm kiếm những loài động vật khác nhau. Gần đến vòng ngoài của cánh rừng thì những cây baobab to lớn xuất hiện cùng với những loại cây đặc trưng của vùng đất khô. Có những cây baobab đã gần 700 năm tuổi, có cây thì đến 1000 năm. Thân cây cao và to với ít cành ở trên, trông rất lạ.
Mãi một lúc sau lại vòng về đường quốc lộ RN7. Cả đám ăn picnic và quyết định đi thêm một vòng khác ở phía bên phải con đường vẫn chưa đi. Trên đồi ở đây, có một căn nhà nhỏ triển lãm về khu bảo tồn Zombitse. Con phát hiện ra có một con thằn lằn xanh tưởng lầm, trèo cây vẽ trên một bức tường. Buồn cười lắm! (Có wifi con sẽ gửi hình nhé)
Đường về lại Ifaty khá dài, sau khi nghỉ chân ở Tulear, xe chở tụi con hỏng giữa đường. Thế là phải chờ nửa tiếng cho tài xế sửa xe (chuyện thường ngày ở đây!) Chặng đường còn lại đi qua cách rừng ngập mặn trước bầu trời đỏ rực, vô cùng lộng lẫy. Thế là kết thúc một ngày dài.
Bí
Để có thêm nhiều thời gian đi rừng ngày chủ nhật, tụi con lên thành phố Tulear trước ngủ lại để sáng hôm sau lên đường sớm.Tầm trưa thứ 7 đã lên Tulear rồi. Mọi người cùng nhau đi mua đồ ăn sáng và trưa cho ngày hôm sau. Có thêm 3 bạn từ tổ chức Honku, làm ở rừng ngập mặn cách Reefdoctor không xa lắm cũng tham gia chuyến đi. Con cũng đã có thời gian gặp gỡ với các bạn ở tiệc BBQ lần trước. Chiều tối, nhân tiện chia tay một chị sinh viên thực tập về nước, các bạn rủ nhau ra nhà hàng ăn một bữa ăn ngon rồi về nghỉ ngơi.
Vì tiết kiệm tiền đi xe nên bảy đứa chui hết vào một phòng cho năm người. Nói chung khá là đông. Con xin thêm nệm ngủ dưới đất.
4h sáng đã phải lục đục dậy để chuẩn bị nửa tiếng sau khởi hành. Mọi người ai nấy vẫn còn đang ngái ngủ, trả tiền khách sạn xong xuôi thì lên đường.
Trời vẫn còn tối, cửa sổ mở để gió lạnh thổi vào. Xe bắt đầu chạy theo con đường quốc lộ RN7. Bên ngoài tối như mực, không một ánh đèn, chỉ có một bầu trời phủ đầy sao lấp lánh. Xe vẫn cứ tiếp tục băng băng trong màn đêm, qua mấy trạm kiểm soát. Vài nơi đâu đó dọc đường có ánh sáng mập mờ và mùi hương của củi đốt cháy trước những ngôi nhà lá.
Từ từ rồi mặt trời cũng ló mặt. Quang cảnh xung quanh bắt đầu hiện rõ lên hơn. Con đường quốc lộ RN7 khá nhỏ, cắt vào giữa vùng đất khô cằn của phía Nam Bắc Madagascar. Hai bên đường là một màu vàng, đất cát bao trùm, cây cối lưa thưa và nhiều nhất là loại cỏ cũng chung một màu vàng. Các loại thực vật ở đây đã học cách thích nghi với môi trường khắc nghiệt giữa thung lũng cát. Cây to thưa thớt, rải dọc hai bên. Có cây thì xanh, phủ mát một phấn đất, thường có ít ngôi nhà lá bao vây. Người dân Malagasy không chỉ dựa vào cây để trú mát mà họ còn tin vào linh hồn nằm trong cây. Vì thế khi đến Ifaty, Rina đã nói cho con biết rằng không nên đạp lên rễ cây của những cái cây to như là cây me, một điều "fady" trong phong tục ở đây. "Fady" là từ dùng để tả những điều xấu.
Xa xa khỏi vùng cát khô là những dãy núi đá vàng đang mòn theo thời gian với đỉnh phẳng như mặt bàn. Đặc trưng ở phía Nam là cây baobab, một loại cây có thân to và cao nhưng thường không có nhiều lá nên dân cư thường không chọn loại cây này để xây dựng làng.
Sau gần 2 tiếng đồng hồ, xe dừng lại giữa con đường quốc lộ RN7. Hai bên cây xanh rậm rạp, tụi con đang nằm giữa khu rừng quốc gia Zombitse. Tại đây, một anh thanh niên người Malagasy sẽ dẫn đường vào thăm quan rừng cho cả nhóm.
Rừng Zombitse được bảo vệ vì vào đây người ta sẽ thấy rừng xanh chuyển thành rừng khô. Cánh rừng vẫn còn khá là hoang sơ mặc dù đã có những lối đi đã được phá cho du khách tham quan. Tất cả đều im lặng để chờ xem lemurs.
Lemurs là con vật biểu tượng quốc gia của Madagscar. Cả nước có rất nhiều loại lemurs khác nhau. Vào rừng khoảng 20 phút, tụi con đã thấy chúng đu từ cành cây này đến cành cây kia. Lemurs giống như khỉ vậy. Sống ở trên cây, có đuôi dài, mắt to có vành đen và tùy vào loài mà có màu lông khác nhau. Loài mà con thấy lúc này có màu trắng buốt từ đầu đến chân.
Đi sâu thêm thì bắt gặp nhiều loại vật khác như con tắc kè đổi màu giả dạng trên cây, con thằn lằn xanh mướt và nhiều loài chim nữa. Càng đi sâu càng thấy thú vị theo anh thanh niên Malagasy tìm kiếm những loài động vật khác nhau. Gần đến vòng ngoài của cánh rừng thì những cây baobab to lớn xuất hiện cùng với những loại cây đặc trưng của vùng đất khô. Có những cây baobab đã gần 700 năm tuổi, có cây thì đến 1000 năm. Thân cây cao và to với ít cành ở trên, trông rất lạ.
Mãi một lúc sau lại vòng về đường quốc lộ RN7. Cả đám ăn picnic và quyết định đi thêm một vòng khác ở phía bên phải con đường vẫn chưa đi. Trên đồi ở đây, có một căn nhà nhỏ triển lãm về khu bảo tồn Zombitse. Con phát hiện ra có một con thằn lằn xanh tưởng lầm, trèo cây vẽ trên một bức tường. Buồn cười lắm! (Có wifi con sẽ gửi hình nhé)
Đường về lại Ifaty khá dài, sau khi nghỉ chân ở Tulear, xe chở tụi con hỏng giữa đường. Thế là phải chờ nửa tiếng cho tài xế sửa xe (chuyện thường ngày ở đây!) Chặng đường còn lại đi qua cách rừng ngập mặn trước bầu trời đỏ rực, vô cùng lộng lẫy. Thế là kết thúc một ngày dài.
Bí
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